MOLD
Facts,
Remediation, and Testing
If
you see mold or smell mold you pretty much have mold.
Most molds are black in color.
Testing for mold
can be a waste of money and time. The key to the mold is determining
the cause. Marko E. Vovk is a CIE (Certified Indoor Environmentalist)
and a BSE (Building Science Engineer) who specializes in moisture
mapping, moisture surveys, and forensic moisture evaluations.
Marko E. Vovk is also the Co-Author of THE
ILLUSTRATED MOLD HANDBOOK. Please
refer to the moisture mapping
section of this web site for additional information.
Mold Related Services
Provided
| Moisture Mapping Investigation |
Fungal Sampling |
| IAQ |
APP Aggressive Particle Profiling |
| Thermography |
Expert Witness |
| Psychrometrics |
Dew Point Projections |
| Odor Testing |
Building Science |
| Indoor Air Consultations |
Residential Forensics |
| Mold Laboratory Analysis |
Microbial Assessments |
| Digital Imaging |
Mold Investigations |
| HVAC Diagnostics |
Combustion Analysis |
MOLD QUESTIONS, PHOTOS, INFORMATION
AND FACTS
Introduction
to Molds
Molds are simple, microscopic organisms,
present virtually everywhere, indoors and outdoors. (You cannot
kill all molds.) Molds, along with mushrooms and yeasts, are
fungi and are needed to break down dead material and recycle
nutrients in the environment. For molds to grow and reproduce,
they need only a food source – any organic material,
such as leaves, wood, paper, windows, boxes luggage or dirt
and moisture. The paint or dust on your basement walls is
all mold needs to grow. Because molds grow by digesting the
organic material, they gradually destroy whatever they grow
on. Sometimes, new molds grow on old mold colonies. Our Cleveland
microscapist has taken photos of mold growing on a live dust
mite. (A microscopic dust mite can be seen in the book “The
Illustrated Mold Handbook written by co-author Marko E. Vovk.)
Mold growth on surfaces can often be seen in the form of discoloration,
frequently green, gray, brown, or black but also white and
other colors.
Molds release many microscopic spores, which travel through
the air. When excessive moisture or water accumulates indoors,
mold growth will often occur, particularly if the moisture
problem remains undiscovered or un-addressed. There is no
practical way to eliminate all molds and mold spores in the
indoor environment. The way to control indoor mold growth
is to control moisture.
Basic Mold Cleanup
The key to mold control is moisture control. It is important
to dry water damaged areas and items within 24-48 hours to
prevent mold growth. If mold is a problem in your home, clean
up the mold and get rid of the excess water or moisture. Fix
leaky plumbing or other sources of water. Wash mold off hard
surfaces with detergent and water, and dry completely. Absorbent
materials (such as ceiling tiles and carpet) that become moldy
may have to be replaced.
Downloads provided in PDF version on
the page.
Ten Things
You Should Know About Mold
-
Potential health effects and symptoms associated with
mold exposures include allergic reactions, asthma, and
other respiratory complaints.
-
There
is no practical way to eliminate all molds and mold spores
in the indoor environment. The way to control indoor mold
growth is to control moisture.
-
If mold is a problem in your home or school, you must
clean up the mold and eliminate sources of moisture.
-
Fix the source of the water problem or leak to prevent
mold growth.
-
Reduce indoor humidity (to 20-40%) to decrease mold growth
by: venting bathrooms, dryers, and other moisture-generating
sources to the outside; using air conditioners and de-humidifiers;
increasing ventilation; and using exhaust fans whenever
cooking, dishwashing, and cleaning.
-
Clean and dry any damp or wet building materials and furnishings
within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth.
-
Clean mold off hard surfaces with water and detergent,
and dry completely. Absorbent materials such as ceiling
tiles, that are moldy, may need to be replaced.
-
Prevent condensation: Reduce the potential for condensation
on cold surfaces (i.e. windows, piping, exterior walls,
roof, or floors) by adding insulation.
In areas where there is a perpetual moisture problem,
i.e. by drinking fountains, by classroom sinks, or on
concrete floors with leaks or frequent condensation, do
not install carpeting.
Moisture Control
Water
in your home can come from many sources. Water can enter your
home by leaking or by infiltrating through basement floors.
Showers or even cooking can add moisture to the air in your
home. The amount of moisture that the air in your home can
hold depends on the temperature of the air. As the temperature
goes down, the air is able to hold less moisture. This is
why, in cold weather, moisture condenses on cold surfaces.
For example, drops of water form on the inside of a window.
This moisture can encourage biological pollutants to grow.
Please refer to our MOISTURE section for additional information
pertaining to humidity, dew points, and forensic moisture
mapping.
There are many ways
to control moisture in your home:
-
Fix leaks and
all moisture infiltration conditions. If water is entering
the house from the outside, your options range from simple
landscaping to extensive excavation and waterproofing.
(The ground should slope away from the house. Generally,
one inch drop per foot of slope.) Water in the basement
can result from the lack of gutters or a water flow toward
the house. Water leaks in pipes or around tubs and sinks
can provide a place for biological pollutants to grow.
-
Put a plastic cover (vapor barrier)
over soil in crawlspaces to prevent moisture from coming
in from the ground. Crawl spaces should be conditioned
and not vented to the exterior.
-
Use exhaust fans in bathrooms and
kitchens to remove moisture to the outside. Vent your
clothes dryer to the outside.
-
Turn off certain appliances (such
as humidifiers, ventless heaters, ventless fireplaces,
negative air machines, or kerosene heaters) if you notice
moisture on windows and other surfaces.
-
FURNACE
HUMIDIFIERS CAN RUIN YOUR HOME AND CAUSE MOLD TO PROLIFERATE.
(Furnace humidifiers make mold remediation companies rich.)
-
Use dehumidifiers and air conditioners
to reduce moisture in the air, but be sure that the appliances
themselves do not become sources of biological pollutants.
-
Balance your heating system and seal
all return air ducts.
-
Seal your sump pump pits with covers
that are 100% sealed.
-
Do not install exfiltration negative
air machines that claim to purify your homes air. (Most
of these come from Canada. The Canadians are ripping us
off with these glorified non-condensing dehumidifiers.
These things can also create negative pressure and cause
carbon monoxide problems.)
-
Do not allow HVAC systems to draw
return air from the basement.
-
Do not use attic fans unless they
are properly installed.
-
Do not vent dryer vents into attics,
garages, or crawl spaces.
-
Raise the temperature of cold surfaces
where moisture condenses. Use insulation or storm windows.
(A storm window installed on the inside works better than
one installed on the outside.) Open doors between rooms
(especially doors to closets which may be colder than
the rooms) to increase circulation. Circulation carries
heat to the cold surfaces. Increase air circulation by
using fans and by moving furniture from wall corners to
promote air and heat circulation. Be sure that your house
has a source of fresh air and can expel excessive moisture
from the home.
-
Perform combustion analysis on all
gas-fired systems to make sure that proper draft and combustion
exists.
-
Make sure the fireplace, hot water
heater, and furnace are not spilling or back drafting.
-
Pay special attention to carpet on
concrete floors. Carpet can absorb moisture and serve
as a place for biological pollutants to grow. Use area
rugs, which can be taken up and washed often. In certain
climates, if carpet is to be installed over a concrete
floor, it may be necessary to use a vapor barrier (plastic
sheeting) over the concrete and cover that with sub-flooring
(insulation covered with plywood) to prevent a moisture
problem.
-
Moisture problems and their solutions
differ from one climate to another. The Northeast is cold
and wet; the Southwest is hot and dry; the South is hot
and wet; and the Western Mountain states are cold and
dry. All of these regions can have moisture problems.
For example, evaporative coolers used in the Southwest
can encourage the growth of biological pollutants. In
other hot regions, the use of air conditioners, which
cool the air too quickly, may prevent the air conditioners
from running long enough to remove excess moisture from
the air. The types of construction and westernization
for the different climates can lead to different problems
and solutions.
-
Avoid double vapor barriers in attics.
-
Avoid vinyl wallpaper on exterior
walls.
-
Avoid using vapor barriers on finished
foundation walls.
-
Install drainage space, drainage plane,
air vents, and weep holes in all brick installations.
-
Avoid installing sprinkler heads next
to foundations.
-
Avoid using recessed or can lights
in cathedral ceilings.
-
Avoid installing vapor barriers being
drywall during construction.
-
Wood siding should be back primed
and installed on firing strips.
-
EIFS requires a double drainage place
prior to installation.
-
Frog, lily, or fishponds next to foundations
are a bad idea. These same people put lawn ornaments in
their front yards.
-
Swimming pools and hot tubs are for
outdoors.
-
Keep the indoor plant life to reasonable
numbers, like 5-7 total plants for the home.
-
Long showers on cold winter days will
cause condensation conditions in your home.
MOLD DATA, PHOTOS, INFRARED IMAGED AND OTHER INFORMATION
BELOW THIS DOWNLOAD SECTION
DOWNLOAD FILES FOR FREE
Moisture on Windows
FIRST, MAKE SURE
YOUR GAS FIRED SYSTEMS ARE NOT BACK SPILLING AND LEAKING EXHAUST
FUMES. THESE CONDITIONS ARE MORE DANGEROUS THAN MOLD. YOU
SHOULD EMPLOY A CERTIFIED COMBUSTION AND CARBON MONOXIDE ANALYST
TO EVALUATE THESE CONDITIONS. AMBASSADOR CAN ASSIST YOU WITH
THIS TYPE OF EVALUATION.
Your humidistat is set too
high if excessive moisture collects on windows and other cold
surfaces. Excess humidity for a prolonged time can damage
walls, especially when outdoor air temperatures are very low.
Excess moisture condenses on window glass because the glass
is cold. Other sources of excess moisture besides overuse
of a humidifier may be long showers, running water for other
uses, boiling or steaming in cooking, plants, and drying clothes
indoors. A tight, energy efficient house holds more moisture
inside. You may need to run a kitchen or bath ventilating
fan occasionally, or open a window briefly.
The American Society of Heating and Air Conditioning Engineers
(ASHRAE) recommends these maximum indoor humidity levels.
Outdoor Recommended Indoor Temperature Relative Humidity
+20 F. 35% max
+10 F. 30% max
0 F. 25% max
-10 F. 20% max
-20 F. 15% max
TIP: We
recommend all homes have a basement dehumidifier.
TIP:
Unplug your humidifier; do not use ventless fireplaces or
ventless heating units.
Tip:
Balance your heating system and seal your sump pump pits.
For more information on moisture control, please go to the
BUILDING SCIENCE section of this web site.
Can mold be toxic?
Some molds can produce toxic substances called mycotoxins.
Airborne mycotoxins have not been shown to cause health problems
to occupants in residential or commercial buildings. The health
effects of breathing mycotoxins are not well understood and
are currently under study.
High or chronic airborne
exposures, typically associated with certain occupations like
agricultural work, have been associated with illnesses, although
these are rare. More is known about eating mycotoxins (from
humans and animals consuming moldy foods or feed) and the
resulting health effects than is known about breathing mycotoxins.
What is "black mold"? The news media often refer
to "black mold" or "toxic black mold”.
It has usually been associated with the mold Stachybotrys
chartarum, a type of greenish-black mold commonly associated
with heavy water damage. Known health effects are similar
to other common molds. It has been inconclusively associated
with more severe health effects in some people. While there
are only a few molds that are truly black, many can appear
black. Not all molds that appear to be black are Stachybotrys.
MARKO E. VOVK calls
black mold the “THE HOLLYWOOD MOLD”. Why are we
concerned about mold? Small amounts of mold growth in workplaces
or homes (such as mildew on a shower curtain) or workplaces
are not a major concern, but no mold should be permitted to
grow and multiply indoors. When molds are present in large
quantities, they may cause nuisance odors and health problems
for some people. Mold can damage building materials, finishes,
and home furnishings. Some molds can cause structural damage
to wood.
How do molds affect
people? Most people will have no reaction at all when exposed
to molds. Allergic reactions, similar to common pollen or
animal allergies, are the most common health effects for individuals
sensitive to molds. Flu-like symptoms and skin rash may occur.
Molds may also aggravate asthma. Fungal infections from building-associated
molds may occur in people with serious immune disease but
this is very rare. Most symptoms are temporary and eliminated
by correcting the mold problem in the home.
Who is affected by
exposure to mold? For those who are affected by mold exposure,
there can be a wide variation in how they react. People who
may be affected more severely and quickly than others may
include:
• Infants and children
• Elderly people
• Pregnant women
• Individuals with respiratory conditions or allergies
and asthma
• Persons with weakened immune systems, e.g. people
with HIV infection, chemotherapy patients, or organ or bone
marrow transplant recipients, autoimmune diseases.
Those with special
health concerns should consult their doctor if they are concerned
about mold exposure. The symptoms that may seem to occur from
mold exposure can also be due to other causes such as bacterial
or viral infections, or other allergies.
What should I do if I see or smell mold in my home? The most
important step in solving a mold problem is to identify and
fix the moisture sources that caused the mold growth. For
small mold problems, use detergent and water to wash mold
off hard surfaces and dry completely. Porous or absorbent
materials (such as ceiling tiles, wallboard, and carpeting)
that become moldy should be replaced. If you do not see mold
growth, but notice a musty odor, mold may be growing behind
water-damaged materials, such as walls, carpeting, or wallpaper.
Persons cleaning mold should wear gloves, eye protection and
a dust mask or respirator to protect against breathing airborne
spores. N95 dust mask or respirator may be purchased in hardware
stores. If you have health concerns, you should consult your
doctor before doing any mold cleanup.
Should I test my home
for mold? Probably not. It should not be your first step.
Your first step should be to have your home inspected for
moisture, humidity, and building science conditions. Marko
E. Vovk is a building science engineer who specializes in
forensic moisture investigations.
Please refer to the
MOISTURE TESTING section of this web site
for additional information. Testing for mold is expensive,
and you should have a clear reason for doing so. In most cases,
it is not economically practical or useful to test for mold
growth on surfaces or for airborne spores in the home. Testing
also tells you little about where mold is located and how
to clean it up. In addition, there are no standards for "acceptable"
levels of mold in buildings, so when testing is done, it is
usually to compare the levels and types of mold spores found
inside the home with those found outside the home. If you
know you have a mold problem, it is more important to spend
time and resources to get rid of the mold and solve the moisture
problem causing the moldy conditions rather than to test for
the mold problem.
SOME MOLD VOCABULARY
YOUR
PHRASE |
THE
MOLD EXPERT PHRASE |
Mold |
fungal reservoir |
Mold growing |
fungal amplification |
Mold growth
in one spot |
micro-environment |
Mold all over |
fungal or microbial
proliferation |
Mold report |
microbial essay |
Mold report |
MARKO STYLE
(FORENSIC MOISTURE MAPPING SURVEY) OR
(MOISTURE SURVEY INVESTIGATION) OR
(MOISTURE ASSESSMENT) |
| Nasty stuff |
Bio-Growth |
| OH MY GOODNESS |
a lot of BioGrowth |
| Mold in vacant home |
VBS Vacant Building Syndrome
or VHS Vacant Home Syndrome |
| Inside the |
wall interstitial |
| Black Mold |
toxigenic fungal reservoirs (Strictly
for Hollywood people) |
| Sick from Mold |
hypersensitivity, immune compromised,
sensitize, etc. |
| Mold test bulk |
swab, tape lift, slide |
| Mold test air |
spore trap, viable test, non-viable
test, Air-O-Cell,
Anderson Impact Plate |
| Dust testing |
APP aggressive particle profiling,
laser particle testing |
| Bubbling Paint |
stalagtosac |
Its raining
in my attic |
hydrick buffer
capacity has exceeded and condensation is occurring |
FOR ALL YOUR TESTING, CONSULTATION,
EXPERT ADVISE, MOISTURE MAPPING, THERMOGRAPHY IMAGING AND
EXPERT WITNESS TESTIMONY PLEASE CALL MARKO E. VOVK IN THE
FIELD AT 216-924-TEST (CELL), OR 216-431 (TEST OFFICE).
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